Repairs & Maintenance · 9 min read · Intermediate

How to Repoint Brickwork: A Practical DIY Guide

Understand when local brickwork repointing can be a realistic DIY repair, how to remove failed mortar without damaging the bricks, and when cracking, historic masonry or access makes professional assessment the safer choice.

Key points & steps

Inspect the wall before removing mortar. Look for powdery, loose, missing or badly eroded joints, but also check whether cracks run through bricks, widen over time, step around openings or suggest movement rather than simple mortar weathering.
Consider the age and type of the masonry before choosing mortar. Older or softer brickwork can be damaged by an overly hard, impermeable cement-rich repair, so mortar compatibility matters more than using one universal mix.
Limit DIY work to areas that can be reached and worked safely. High elevations, unstable access, large façades, listed or particularly historic masonry and walls with suspected structural movement deserve specialist advice.
Remove failed mortar carefully back to sound material. Work along the joint without damaging the brick arrises; the aim is a clean, stable recess deep enough to hold new mortar rather than a superficial cosmetic scrape.
Brush or vacuum loose dust and debris from the joints. Lightly damp absorbent masonry where appropriate so very dry brickwork does not pull moisture from fresh mortar too quickly.
Press a compatible mortar firmly into the prepared joint in manageable lifts where necessary, filling voids rather than smearing a thin layer across the face.
Finish the joint to an appropriate profile while the mortar is workable. Try to match the existing sound pointing rather than changing the appearance of isolated patches without reason.
Protect fresh work from rapid drying, heavy rain and frost. Follow the mortar manufacturer or project guidance for curing and weather conditions.
Clean the brick faces carefully as work progresses and inspect the repair after curing. If cracking reappears or the masonry continues to move, investigate the cause rather than repeatedly repointing the symptom.

Practical tips

A shallow surface smear over loose mortar is unlikely to be durable; the new mortar needs a sound, properly prepared joint to bond into.
Power tools can damage brick edges very quickly. On soft, narrow or historic joints, careful hand removal may be more appropriate unless the operator and method are suitable.
Do not assume hard cement mortar is automatically stronger or better. In older masonry, a compatible more permeable mortar may be important so moisture can leave through the joint rather than the brick face.
Treat significant movement cracks, bulging walls, widespread spalling, persistent penetrating damp or loose masonry as diagnosis problems first, not simply repointing jobs.

What you may need

Safety glasses and suitable gloves
Joint rake / plugging chisel or other suitable mortar-removal tool
Stiff hand brush and dust-removal method
Pointing trowel / jointing tools
Compatible mortar selected for the masonry
Clean water and controlled dampening method where appropriate
Weather protection for fresh mortar if required

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